CERRO ACONCAGUA 22,841 Feet

Join North Cascade Mountain Guides to climb
Americas Highest Peak-CERRO ACONCAGUA 22,841 Feet

Dates: January 2007 .


*Courtesy of Barna


Our 2-3 week expedition is a unique desert alpine experience located in the heart of Aregentine Andes. Cerro Aconcagua offers a multitude in technical variety for the high altitude climber! This extreme altitude desert peak has a unique environment surrounding it, which takes you deep inside of the Argentine culture. The desert valleys allow you access into the alpine environment. Once out of the lush desert drainages, water ice cascades over alpine-rock justaposed to calving Polish Glacier– a paradox of this desert alpine that make Aconcagua like no other place you have ever been!


MENDOZA

Mendoza will be the city you will be flying into, it is also the city that we will start our expedition from. The hotel that will be our home base is El Portal Suites (address: Necochea 661). Single: $60 US Dollars. Double: $73 US Dollars. These rooms are spacious, clean, and have a kitchenette. Internet access is also located in the lobby along with a continental breakfast. There is also storage available for leaving items we will not take on the mountain.





*Courtesy of paesieimmagini



OPERATOR

Our operator for the expedition is Fernando Grajales. He is the best, and one of the most experienced operators on the mountain. This is an Aconcogua Outfitter .
Grajales is responsible for:
-Picking you up at the air port
-Transportation to Penietentes
-Transportation to Punta Del Inca for acclimatization hike
-Storage of gear while on the mountain.
-Emergency rentals
-Making hotel reservations
-Mules
-Base camp

Mendoza to Penetentes (3hrs)
The pick up (van) that takes you to Penetentes ski-resort/hamlet and hotel were you will begin your two days of expedition prep and acclimatization at 9,000ft.

Penetentes-9000ft
Base town of Expedition
Day 1: We will arrive and get settled in. Start expedition organization.

Day 2: Day Hike: “Cristos los Revenador”
starting at 10,000ft and goes up a road to a pass at 12,000ft and Refugio at 13,800 and continue to 14,000 if possible but not necessary.
Time: 5-7 round trip at a moderate pace.

Remainder of day should be spent organizing gear.
1.Trekking pack
2. A Climbing Duffle that will be on the Mule and taken to each camp each day
3. A bag to leave in operator storage with luggage locks



*skimountaineer.com




THE CLIMB


CERRO ACONCOGUA-NORTH FACE ROUTES
Basic Info about the False Polish or Polish Glacier Route:
*All camps are the same for both routes

TREK IN TO BASE CAMP: 3 days-23miles-6,500ft gain
*Mules carry gear up to base camp
Dersert Trek day one: LAS LENAS~9400ft
.7 miles 4-5 hrs 1,500ft gain.
Desert Trek day two: CASA PIEDRA~10,500ft
9.2 miles 5-6hrs 1,100 gain.
Desert trek day three: PLAZA ARGENTINA (Base camp)~13,780ft
7 miles 6-7hrs gain 3280ft






*Courtesy of Barna


BASE CAMP-Two Rest Days
Once we are at Base Camp, horse camping is over we will rest up for two days and enjoy food cooked by our operator. From this camp we will be start the climb and make two or three higher camps

1.Carry to CAMP I: 3-3 1/2hrs to carry a cache to Camp 1 above Base Camp. This is a good day to acclimatize up high, and sleep back down at base camp.

2. Rest day: We will have a mandatory rest day at Base Camp and organize our move up to Camp 1 for the following day.

3. Move to CAMP I 16,200ft: This day usually takes 4.5 hours and the following day we will have a rest day at C1.

4. Rest day Camp I

5. Carry to CAMP II 19,350ft
3/4day 2mi 2,950ft gain Following day we rest or move to Camp II

6. Rest day at Camp I or II
7. Move to Camp II. From camp II we stage our Summit day via the two route opptions.

8. Rest Day CII

9. Summit Day attempt ( 5 days for weather) 22,841ft: 6-11hrs round trip 3500ft gain.


*After summit day we will sleep at camp II, then head to base camp! From base camp it will take 2 days to trek out.

Who can climb this peak??
Previous backpacking, and camping skills are a requirement! Physical Fitness levels should be at a level where you can hike all day with a heavy pack. It is highly reccomended to have basic winter camping skills.
*Polish Glacier route requirement: fundamental understanding of glacier travel, cramponing, and self arrest.


MOUNTAIN FACTS
Other names/spellings: Cerro Aconcagua/Mount Aconcagua
Elevation: (feet) 22841
Elevation: (meters) 6962
Location :Andes, Argentina, South America
Latitude: 32… 39' S
Longitude: 70… 14' W
Best Climbing Months Late December, January, February

Safety From the Government:
Up-to-date information on safety and security can also be obtained by calling 1-888-407-4747 toll free in the United States, or for callers outside the United States and Canada, a regular toll line at 1-202-501-4444.  These numbers are available from 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday (except U.S. federal holidays). 

The public health system in Argentina provides emergency and non-emergency services free of charge to all, regardless of nationality. The quality of non-emergency care in public hospitals is generally below U.S. standards.  Medical care in private hospitals in Buenos Aires is generally good, but varies in quality outside the capital.  Serious medical problems requiring hospitalization in private facilities and/or medical evacuation to the United States can cost thousands of dollars or more.  Private physicians, clinics, and hospitals often expect immediate cash payment for health services. (Travel.State.Gov.)

When going to South America, having an update on immuzations is important, however nothing more is required than updated shots. Check with your local healthcare provider for further information.

Language: The official language is Spanish. English is spoken at most travel agencies, hotels, and tourist information offices.

Food: Over 3500 meters of altitude of climbing will be done to climb Aconcagua. An average climber will burn about 8000 calories daily. One must supply at least 2500 calories daily to be prepared for the mountain. We will be planning on being on the mountain for 21 days, so we will ration 21 days worth of food.


*Courtesy of Falklands-Malvinas gallery


What we will provide for the cost:$6600-$5500 ratio dependent
-Domestic Transportation
-Guide Fees
-All Food on Mountain
-Operator (see above)
-Group Gear (tent, stoves, technical climbing gear)

We are looking forward to having you join us in Argentina this winter. It is going to be a wild cultural and alpine experience not to be missed. If you have any questions or need more information please do not hesitate to call or e-mail us here at NCMG.

















NORTH CASCADES MOUNTAIN GUIDES
Alpine guides located in Beautiful Mazama Washington

Contact us
2 Country Rd
Mazama WA 98833
www.ncmountainguides.com NCMG web site
ncinfo@ncmountainguides.com office e-mail
alpinelines@gmail.com Mark Allen e-mail
509-996-3194-office phone